This post wasn't originally going to be all about KFC...

I went down to the KFC yesterday. Kaifeng being the upwardly mobile, quickly modernizing little city that can, has 3-4 KFCs. I don't care much for fast food (to be honest it is rather slow compared to the very quick service one usually gets in the eateries around campus) but it is nice to have some French fries once in a while. Of course the French Fries always take the longest because they are not very popular among Chinese people and so they never have any pre-made. The upside is that they are always fresh. The real reason to visit KFC though is the view from the second floor windows. This KFC is located on the south-west side of Gulou (Drum Tower) which is the name for the large area of asphalt in the center of town. It isn't really a square (in the municipal sense) since it also serves as a rather large intersection. As for the drum tower it is long gone. There are no statues or prominent buildings which denote the area either. Still though the place is well known and always crowded. The hustle and bustle (of which many Chinese cities have quite a lot of) is what makes the view from the second story KFC so wonderful.

A word on KFCs; in Chinese they are called 肯德基 Ken3de2ji1 (which is also how one says Kentucky in Chinese). Way back in 2004 on my first trip to China the characters in the name KFC were the first I ever tried looking up in a dictionary. (For those of you unfamiliar with Chinese it is not a dictionary friendly language, and learning to use one takes lots of practice.) But I digress from this digression. The characters literally translate to: willing and virtuous foundation (although the 基 (foundation) is a homophone with 鸡 (chicken) so I still like to refer to the place as: the virtuous and willing chicken.)

The other nice thing about KFC is that so long as you buy something (like one bag of fries) you can stay at your table as long as you like. (Actually you can often sit at a table without having bought anything, but I'm still not quite comfortable with that, and I think it is probably officially frowned upon.) The other nice thing about KFC and about China is general is that basically no restaurant cares about you bringing in outside food or drinks. In fact is it quite common. For example I have often gone to the dumpling shop outside my building, placed my order and then told then that I will be sitting in the restaurant right next door, so when they are ready please bring them over. So when I order my fries I always make sure to bring my own drink and often a bag of mandarin oranges or anything else I please.

If I plan to make a trip to the KFC timing is always important. Since it sits smack in the center of one of Kaifeng's busiest shopping districts the KFC is very busy during meal time. But on the weekend it is filled to the bursting point all day long with weary shoppers, especially in the winter as it is well heated for a Chinese building, and there are no other places for people to stop and sit. (ie. a coffee shop; not even a Starbucks. I keep hoping that with all the shitty new development going in all the time someone will be daring enough to plop a Starbucks down in Kaifeng, but it will be quite some time before that. I don't even think Zhengzhou has one. Oh well. Its probably bad judgement to ever wish for a Starbucks, so I'll hold my tongue in the future.)

The best time then is usually right after the lunch rush clears out. Then you have most of the rest of the day in relative calm. I very much love people watching and being in China only makes it that much more interesting. Of course the problem of doing it here in China is that I am being stared at by the people I'd like to be watching. Which is certainly the case if I were to sit in the first floor for instance. Chinese people love a good show, even if that show is some random white guy sitting in a KFC eating french fries and looking out the window. Even on the second floor I have to position myself with my back to the room to ignore all the people who keep turning around to look at me.

Here is a little view from the window.

I think I will have more on what there is later.